Welcome to the Jungle

The Amazon (La Selva) was one of those places that are so outside anything I have ever experienced;  I was unable to process the reality of the situation around me.   
 Rachel and I traveled with our friends Justin, Lauren and Justin’s niece Elena.  We set out for a 5-day trip at a lodge located off of a tributary of the Amazon called the Yanayacu River (which means “Black water”).     Upon arrival at the airport in Iquitos we were greeted by the owner of the lodge, Mike,  and our guide, a local named Beder.  Iquitos is the largest city in the Amazon region and is the largest city in the world that is completely INACCESSIBLE by road.  Once a center for the rubber trade, Iquitos is now mostly fueled by tourism.  However, although it is in Peru, Iquitos and the entire jungle district of Loreto feels like an entirely different country.  The jungle region was completely isolated from the political troubles that occurred on the other side of the mountains in the 80’s and 90’s and, as a result, a lot of the residents considered themselves separate from their fellow countryman in the desert and mountain regions. 
After arriving at the airport and making our introductions we headed out by bus to the city of Nauta which is located about 100km south of Iquitos.  From there we picked up our boat and headed downriver to the Yanayacu.  The scale of the Amazon River itself was impressive, about 2 ½ miles across and fast moving with tons of ferry boats for the locals as well as swanky tour boats which are basically floating hotels reminiscent of 19^th century Mississippi river paddle boats.  

The river

Waterfront property...notice the stilts

Traffic on the river

After about 2 ½ hours on the Amazon, we arrived at the Yanayacu.  We headed up river, passing a series of small villages comprised of wood huts with thatched roofs that were built on stilts due to seasonal flooding.  After about thirty minutes we reached the lodge which was basically a collection of huts of similar build to the villagers residences connected to a central dining area.  The lodge was staffed by locals who were incredibly helpful and kind.
After putting our gear in our rooms, we headed out on our first jungle walk.  We slathered on bug repellent, put on our rubber boots and headed out.  The first thing that struck me we you enter the jungle is the complete loss of a sense of direction.  After only a few steps I had no idea which way I had come from and which direction I was heading.  The diversity of foliage and animal life was all around you and you couldn’t really focus on a single item on your own.  Thank God for our guide who pointed out numerous species of plants and animals.

After our  initial introduction to the jungle, we headed back to the lodge to freshen up, get some dinner, and then it was on a small boat for a nighttime tour of the river.  Our goal was clear, to search for miniature crocodiles called Caiman.  We were successful in locating a Caiman and even got to hold it which was a crazy experience. 

Justin made a new friend

Up close

Our first night sleeping in the jungle was one that I will soon never forget.   The cacophony of noises coming from nocturnal animals such as birds and monkeys was both terrifying as well as strangely relaxing.  If the day’s adventures weren’t enough, the nighttime sounds were startlingly reminders of how alive the forest around you was, very different from the “woods” back in the ole east coast of the USA.

The next day we headed out before sunrise to do some bird watching along the river.  We saw some of the craziest birds with even crazier sounding names such as the “Horned Screamer”.   Also, some of the prettiest sunrises I have ever witnessed was on the river.

Horned Screamer

In the afternoon we headed to a black water lagoon to check out the giant lily pads.

The next day was filled will more bird watching as well as meeting with our neighbors.     One of the major sources of income for the people in the area is making jewelry and other handicrafts using local materials.  We were fortunate enough to be able to observe and participate in jewelry making process. The heads of the family were super friendly and their kids were incredibly cute. 

Basket making in a local person's home

Local kids posing for the camera

These are some bad-ass playa's

Apprentice learning the trade

Just another crazy chicken!!!

Overall, the jungle was a truly unique experience.  I have never ceased to be amazed at the shear diversity this country has to offer. I close this post with a quote from Joseph Conrad.  I think this best summarizes my experience in La Selva.


"Do you see him? Do you see the story? Do you see anything? It seems I am trying to tell you a dream--making a vain attempt, because no relation of a dream can convey the dream-sensation, that commingling of absurdity, surprise, and bewilderment in a tremor of struggling revolt, that notion of being captured by the incredible which is the very essence of dreams."
- Joseph Conrad, Heart of Darkness, Part 1

Islas Ballestas

A few weeks ago, our good friends Vicki and Alex arrived from Baltimore. We had an amazing 2 weeks exploring the parts of Peru that we hadn’t seen yet. Out first stop was to Paracas and the Islas Ballestas.

The islands sit a few miles off the coast of Paracas, which is a 3 and a half hour drive to the south of Lima.  They are a haven for pelicans, Peruvian boobies, Humbolt penguins, cormorants and sea lions.  They are also a rich source of guano that is used as fertilizer.  Every 5-6 years a crew docks on the islands for 3 months to collect the guano.  Interesting side note: guano exportation to Europe and the U.S. was Peru’s main source of revenue during the mid-nineteenth century. Aside from the guano collecting crew, no one is allowed on the islands, so they are seen only from boats.

Paracas Reserve

guano collection port

The Candelebra, a mysterious petroglyph on the mountainside

As our boat passed The Candelabra petroglyph carved into the mountainside on the Paracas peninsula, we headed in a thick fog that frequently engulfs the bay.  For the last mile or so we could not see anything for the fog, and then suddenly we were upon the islands.  Thousands of birds circled overhead and the sound of their squawks and the sea lions “barks” echoed around us.

those are sea lions inside the arch

We arrived during pupping season and spotted a few pups, though they were out of camera range.  The male sea lions “bark” when they are threatened or trying to protect their females- yes we were told that the strong ones have up to 14 female partners each season.  The cacophony of their low rumblings was incredible.

A Pelican

Humbolt Penguins

If you are in the area, I highly recommend a visit to the islands, but remember to wear a hat because you’ll probably get pooped on.  No worries though, it’s good luck.

Vicki and Alex

Cajamarca

Having been here for about four months now, I am finding myself growing desensitized to the poverty. It’s hard to explain, but I’m going to give it a shot. Though I am still made aware daily of the absurd disparity between the standard of living for an average American and the average Peruvian, each time I leave Lima for the countryside, the material poverty out there seems less debilitating. The land is so rich, the vistas so arresting, and the kindness and immense national pride in each small community so charming, that it’s hard to see the people that live there as deprived. Though the houses are in disarray and the children frequently barefoot, there is an overwhelming sense of cultural richness that somehow blinds me to their heart-breaking poverty. Perhaps after taking a look at the pictures I took this past week while visiting Cajamarca, you will have a better sense of what I mean.

 

Cajamarca is a small city in the Northern Highlands region of Peru. It’s origin dates back over 2000 years and was home to several pre-Incan cultures including the Caxamarca, the Inkas and then Spanish. It is now known as “little Cusco” for it’s beautiful colonial architecture. I made the trip especially so that I could make a research visit to the Yanacocha gold mine in the region, but I found the surrounding landscape equally inspiring. My friend Takako joined me for the trip.  We took a tiny turbo-prop plane from Lima.  It was a little nerve racking the way the plane bumped and dove in the turbulence, but we lived.

the smallest plane I've ridden in to-date

I could see straight through to the cock-pit

For our first afternoon, we took it easy, adjusting to the 2,700m altitude of the city in preparation for out visit to the mine which is at about 4,100m.  We, very slowly, climbed the Santa Apolonia hill that rises just a few blocks south of the Plaza de Armas.  At the top of the hill is a beautiful little park that affords a terrific view of the city.

 

climbing up Santa Apalonia

view of the Cathedral in the Plaza de Armas

view of Santa Apalonia and the city from the surrounding hillside

Cumbe Mayo (Quechua for “thin river”) is a region and frequent tourist destination a few miles outside of the city.  Cumbe Mayo is known for its amazing volcanic “rock forest” and for the 5 mile long pre-Incan aqueduct that cuts through the land.  The continental divide runs through the area and around 1500 B.C., the Andean inhabitants built the channel to divert water that would have run east to the Amazon and eventually to the Atlantic Ocean, to the Pacific side and to the city of Cajamarca.   The perfectly straight canal, which turns at perfect 90° angles as it cuts neatly through the verdant hills is an architectural marvel.   It is also lined with petroglyphs, many of which are still undecipherable.

3 angled turn, a Caxamarcan symbol of the soul's path on it's ascent to heaven

section of the aqueduct

3000+ year old petroglyph

stone out-cropping in Cumbe Mayo

We were joined by a few local girls, who posed for pictures and sang us traditional songs- for tips, as we made our way through the site.  The rock formations in the stone forest were otherworldly. Subject to millions of years of wind and water erosions, the volcanic batholiths now stand like pillars, separating earth from sky.  It was a majestic sight.

our official and unofficial tour guides

We also made a visit to the Ventanillas del Otuzco, a wall of tombs that date back to 900 b.c. In the mid 14th century when the Spanish conquered Cajamarca killing the Incan Emperor Atahualpa, they raided the tombs, destroying the mummies in the process. On the tour we also made a visit to a local flower farm and dairy. Cajamarca is known for it’s dairy products. They actually make a product called mantecoso, which is butter-cheese. YUM!

Ventanillas (windows) de Otuzco

large chamber for a priest or person of high rank

Takako and Me at the dairy farm

guinea pigs

Takako and a baby cow

very typical painted political signs for the upcoming presidential election in April

a family washing their tuk-tuk in the river

A few more pictures from around town...

lots of people still wear those traditional hats

Iglesia Belén

One night we went to a peña, or traditional live music venue.  We were the only two there, along with the owner Jaime, his wife and son, and his friend Victor.  They gave us a lesson in regional history and played a few songs for us.  They were so friendly and welcoming.  If you ever find yourself in Cajamarca, I highly recommend a visit to peña Usha Usha.

from left: Victor, owner Jaime, and Jaime's son playing classical South American
songs for us at the Peña Usha Usha

Victor strumming a classical Peruvian tune from Rachel Sitkin on Vimeo.

the Cathedral at night

Here are a few shots from the Yanacocha mine, though I'm saving the best ones for myself. The mine tour was very interesting. I have been on a few now and this one focused the most on their environmental accountability and social responsibility. Yanacocha is owned by a Colorado based company and they are doing a lot to lessen their environmental impact. Also, in the ten years since the mine opened, the population of Cajamarca has tripled and the mine has done a lot to help them keep up with services, donating a percentage of their profits to educational programs as well.